![]() ![]() You should see a strong spark to the block if the ignition is working OK. You can check the ignition easily by holding one of the plug wires, after removing it from the spark plug, a short distance - a quarter of an inch - from the engine block. ![]() Call AAA or your insurance company and get it towed somewhere that you can trust and will treat you better / communicate with you.įor your vehicle to start you need fuel, ignition, and compression. In a broader sense, it sounds like there is a communication breakdown between this shop/mechanic/business. This is operating on the presumption that the information is correct (NO spark + NO injector pulse). This can get extremely time consuming to chase down, and thus expensive. If something is interfering or shorting with any of the above items (immobilizer, cam/crank sensors, or ECU) then the result will be similar. Since it then started again and died again, if it were the ECU it would likely be due to overheated components, likely electrolytic capacitors. ![]() The difficulty varies wildly based on where the manufacturer decided to locate them on a given engine, and what you have to take off to get to them, but I'd estimate in the neighborhood of $200 - $500. The sensors themselves are cheap (~$40 or so each), but putting them in will cost you a bit if you can't do it yourself. Given that the engine then started, but died again, this is somewhat likely (some will run until warm and die). These tell the ECU where the engine is which in turn controls the ignition and injectors.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |